Thanks for the barrels, Emily! Sunday, August 7, 2011 – East Coast #SurfReport

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Sunday, August 7, 2011

Thanks for the barrels, Emily!

We were scrambling to figure out where to surf this morning. The tide wouldn’t be low until 9am, so it was a waiting game that was hard to endure. The reports were sounding good, and just how long could we wait? We have waited for an offshore wind with a swell for… how long? I managed to wait until 8:15.

Andy said Mark’s girlfriend reported Tenth Street was zooed out already. Maybe we should surf your ramp, I said. He would check it while I checked Tenth.

The parking lot was nearly full when I got there. Ugh. I told Andy that if I didn’t call in ten minutes, I would be going out there. As I got to the top of the dune line, I could see it was actually LESS crowded than yesterday! The swell looked a tad larger and ultra clean. I was out there in five minutes. It seemed funky at first. I mean, it looked perfect, groomed and peeling off nicely, but it felt like the currents were pulling at it and not really what I had hoped for. Once the tide filled in, things got much better. Once I drifted down closer to 16th street, where I met up with Chuck T., things were getting much more interesting.

For the full story and all the photos, go here:

http://surfernancy.blogspot.com/2011/08/thanks-for-barrels-emily.html

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Chris Nomad: Passionate Nomad: Born in Venice, lived in Hawaii 7 years, surf Santa Cruz 25+ years. Professional Writer, Artist, Environmentalist, Entrepreneur, Noob Photog. You can find him on