I think many of us would like this…
VIA – SURFER TODAY
The secrets of surfing till you’re 95
Tuesday, 13 September 2011 09:15
Is it possible to surf when I’m 95 years old? When will I stop surfing waves? How can I paddle with 80 years old? Will I be able to duck dive when I’m 70? How big are the waves I can catch at 65?
Fortunately, all questions have enthusiastic answers. Yes, surfing is possible until the last day of our lives. Roy Earnest has written a very interesting article for “Healthy Aging” magazine. In “Surfing for Life”, recalls the ‘baby boom’ and ‘surfing boom’ of the 60’s to tell us that the first surfing generation is still alive and riding waves.
Surfers have moved with their lives. The career, the house loan, wife and kids, the long dinners with friends, the diseases. It all happens through time. Some have kept catching waves, at least in weekends. Meanwhile, longboards returned to the surf shops and the euphoria returned.
“It should no longer be a surprise when a surfer is over age 40 or 50, and yet, it does surprise many – mostly non-surfers. The growing number of surfers over 50 jolts many people’s view of what older people ‘should do,’ and that jolt gets stronger as surfers get older”, writes Earnest, who is also a gerontologist.
Doc Ball had 93 years old and he was still there out in the water. “Surfing helps me to stay stoked”, he said. Pedro Martins de Lima, the first Portuguese surfer, is 81 and rides for Lightning Bolt.
For the full story go here:
http://www.surfertoday.com/surfing/6156-the-secrets-of-surfing-till-youre-95
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